DIY condition checks a homeowner can do
These are the checks offered in the homeowner self-scope "How's it looking?" step. Each needs only household items and a phone camera. What the homeowner records flows straight into your area assessment on import — typed defects pre-fill your Defects card, and the readings land in the assessment notes.
Spot the damage (the most useful one)
The homeowner taps any visible problem, sets how bad it is (minor / significant), and can tag a photo:
- Cracks — hairline or map cracking is cosmetic; wide or alligator-pattern cracking means a hard coat over a softer one moving apart, and more prep.
- Peeling / flaking — the old coat has lost its grip, usually moisture or a poor previous surface.
- Mould / mildew — green or black growth in shaded or damp spots; needs treatment before painting.
- Water stains — brown/yellow stains or bubbling point to moisture behind the paint.
- Rust / bleed — from nails and fixings, or brown bleed-through.
Sheen read
Sighting along the wall toward the light tells you the current finish, from flat to gloss. Higher sheen is tougher and easier to clean but shows imperfections — it guides what you put back on.
Fade comparison
Comparing a sun-exposed wall with a sheltered spot (under the eave, behind a downpipe) shows how much UV the surface has taken — real fade, not dirt.
The rub (chalk) test
Rubbing a hand firmly across the paint; a chalky residue means the binder is breaking down. Heavy chalk must be washed off or new paint won't hold.
The tape (adhesion) test
Pressing a strip of sticky tape on firmly and ripping it off; if flakes of paint lift, the old coat isn't holding and needs stripping back.
Oil-vs-water (trim)
A cotton ball with a little rubbing alcohol rubbed on trim: if colour transfers it's water-based; if it stays put it's likely oil-based. Tells you what the new product has to bond to.
Paint age & lead-era
Roughly when it was last painted, plus a build-year prompt: pre-1970 (AU/NZ) or pre-1978 (US) homes may carry lead paint, which is flagged for you to confirm and handle safely.
Substrate checks
- Knock / hollow render — a hollow sound means render or stucco is lifting and may need repair first.
- Caulk gaps — open gaps around windows, doors and trim let moisture in and usually need re-caulking.
- Nail pops — small bumps in lines across interior walls/ceilings; easy to patch.
How it reaches you: on import, your flagged problems land in the Defects card of the area assessment, labelled "from homeowner"; a lead-era flag seeds the asbestos/lead hazard for you to confirm, and the readings are summarised in the assessment notes — never priced automatically.